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 1 
 on: December 02, 2018, 06:22:13 
Started by kaito83 - Last post by kaito83
Dear All!

I would like to ask is there any driver witch support 1/64 and supported by astroEQ. DRV8825 only support 1/32 others support only 1/16. Any suggest?

Regards Tamas

 2 
 on: November 15, 2018, 19:49:39 
Started by SirhC - Last post by telfish
Looks really neat.

 3 
 on: November 15, 2018, 19:48:52 
Started by telfish - Last post by telfish
Have just finished a Belt drive CGE conversion which is working but I believe missing the target when slewing, not by much but enough. Here are my numbers from the config utility.

I am using Ramps with a TMC 2208 with all links in which should give 16 usteps interpolated to 256.

The Worm has 180 teeth
The stepper cog has 17 teeth
The Worm cog has 16 teeth.

The Stepper has 1.8 deg steps

My settings in the utility are

Motor steps 1.8
Motor gear 1.0625
Worm 180

Usteps disabled
16 Usteps

Results
 Axis steps per rev 612000
Worm steps/rev 3400
Sidereal IRQ 6364
Siderial speed 896
Resoloution 2.118

Can you take a look and see if I am messing up somewhere. The mount slews fine and will track, not sure how good that is yet, but comparing it with my Atlas when slewed to the same object it's out about the same in both axis.



 4 
 on: November 07, 2018, 01:19:48 
Started by NathanC - Last post by telfish
I switched to them on two builds I use a ramps setup which is hard to configure with these drivers so I just leave all jumpers off. This gives me silent but slow slews.

 5 
 on: November 06, 2018, 21:44:36 
Started by SirhC - Last post by SirhC
Images of the pcb fitted into the one part of the housing

I have attached the 3D stl files in a zip below.  (2 stl 3d files, 1 lower and 1 upper housing) if anyone wants to look at them re-work or even print them please feel free.


Design factors.

When I soldered my pcb I decided not to mount the led`s close to the pcb but to leave them long, that way I make sure they reach the outside of the case and I did not have to try and make light tubes/paths to direct the led light from the board to the outside. I could have used bits of a black plastic drinking straw cut to length but the long lead idea sounded better to me while soldering it up.

The 2 part housing is held together by 4 x M3 button head 30mm bolts and the lower housing has 4 x recessed M3 nut holes that should keep hold of the nuts as you tighten them up and pull the case together.

If anyone prints the housing please remember when tightening the bolts that this is 3d printed in whatever material you selected so "DO NOT" over tighten the bolts because you will destroy the nut holes or even pull the nut through the printed surface.

p.s I have just connected the steppers and ran it at sidereal rate and my stepper drivers are heating up (1.5A steppers) so If your drivers have heatsinks mounted on them then extra space will be needed and a re-designed upper housing will need to be made to fit them in. (on the todooooo list along with everything else)

The final image showing the case with the laser engraved markings and 3 coloured dots showing the led light that emits showing what AstroEQ is doing. Red for power, Blue for usb data and green for AstroEQ status (going to have to adjust the green resistor to tame the light down a bit) and yes I know they should have all been Red led because red does not interfere with dark eyes etc but I am sitting in a warm office with lights on and looking outside I can see what led is doing what..

At some point in the next few weeks I will re-print and laser engrave the case to the final version (the laser machine crashed doing the st4 marking hence the messy marking) at least it was on the prototype housing..

 6 
 on: November 06, 2018, 21:42:28 
Started by SirhC - Last post by SirhC
I purchased the pcb and programmed chips from Tom and today the final part arrived (rj11 sockets went M.I.A).
I rattled up a basic 3d printed housing 107mm x 75.5mm to hold it all together (it might get a few tweaks and re-printed later)


 7 
 on: November 05, 2018, 16:52:15 
Started by AstroGeek - Last post by AstroGeek
I've just finished building my AstroEQ from Tom's PCB and pre-programmed chips.

I'm very pleased with the result so far, very neat in it's compact little Hammond case.

I sourced the remaining components from Farnell and CPC-Farnell and Ebay.  I couldn't get it all from Farnell because some were out of stock and others had a minimum order quantity of 5.

It powered up OK with all the appropriate LEDs and was recognised by Win 10, so I'm now studying how to load the drivers and set up the software for my Synta 6v dual axis motors on my CG5 mount.


 8 
 on: November 02, 2018, 17:06:42 
Started by ryandkg - Last post by ryandkg
Hi all, David here.

First a confession, I have never attempted to build a circuit board of any kind before so I have been struggling to get this project started.

Sheer bull-headed determination (or the inability to recognize my own limitations) has gotten me to the point where I have a working system.  This is a Mega2560 based DIY board that does not include the ST4 connection, just the DEC and RA controls.

After finding this project and deciding to try and build it I was faced with problem that I have no experience in this sort of electronics. I can recognize the basic components on a schematic diagram but had no idea how to convert that to an actual working circuit. Oh, and did I mention that I'm cheap? Even if I had wanted to buy a pre-built unit from Tom, the current hiatus in availability meant DIY was my alternate choice.

I won't walk you through the process that got me to a working circuit because it unfolded over several weeks. What I do want to do is contribute something back to the project. So, what I'm attaching here is a fritzing file of the breadboard layout that I used to get a working circuit. Maybe I just didn't search hard enough but I was unable to find something like this to help me make the leap from schematic to working circuit. Hopefully this will be of use to others.

Please note that I cannot confirm the "correctness" of this breadboard. All I can say is that it makes the motors turn on my EQ5 mount and responds correctly under EQMOD.

All the best and many thanks to Tom for this project.

Fritzing File (on dropbox)

 9 
 on: November 02, 2018, 16:40:45 
Started by NathanC - Last post by NathanC
Seems my steppers just don't like spreadcycle. Changing vref did little to help. Since I installed all the cfg pins on the TMC2100s, without having looked at the code in AstroEQ or the datasheet for the TMC2100s, I just pulled the jumper pins to force the tracking into stealthchop. Slewing is still a bit whiny but tracking is now dead silent. At some point, I will probably just remove both cfg pins and see how the system works completely in stealthchop (plenty of torque in the custom gearing, I think). We'll see how that works since I can't program to save my life!

 10 
 on: November 02, 2018, 07:31:15 
Started by SirhC - Last post by TCWORLD
Hi Chris,

9843680 should do fine as a replacement. As would 2675146. I'll update the BOM with the latter as it's 2p cheaper.
 
Kind Regards,
Tom.

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